
1) Fold 2) Folding 3) Plication
Found on
https://www.crosswordclues.com/clue/pleating

(from the article `dress`) As time passed and finer materials (mostly linen) were produced, a further variety in draping was created by pleating, a treatment particularly in ... Pleating is the process of putting a design of creases into fabric. Accordion, side, box, inverted, sunburst, air-tuck, Van Dyke, and crystal are ... [2 rela...
Found on
http://www.britannica.com/eb/a-z/p/79

Folding of upper leather to give a gathered effect.
Found on
https://www.encyclo.co.uk/local/23292
No exact match found.