Copy of `Pinza Shoes - footwear glossary`

The wordlist doesn't exist anymore, or, the website doesn't exist anymore. On this page you can find a copy of the original information. The information may have been taken offline because it is outdated.

Pinza Shoes - footwear glossary Category: General > Footwear terms Date & country: 17/05/2018, USA Words: 317

P2E
A thin corrugated metal plate used in golf shoes. Eliminates uncomfortable spike pressure by distributing it throughout the entire outsole. More comfort, improved performance.

Whole Cut Shoe
A shoe with the upper cut in one piece, closed by seaming at the back of the quarters.

ZORI
A type of traditional Japanese footwear. The modern version is sometimes referred to as slippers, sandals, thongs, or flip-flops. In Hawaii, they are most commonly called zori.

D-Ring
Plastic or metal eyelets placed along the eye-stay which aid in ease of lacing, support and security of fit.

Welted Footwear
The sole is stitched to a welt, a strip of leather running around the feather of the shoe, which is also stitched to the upper.

Welt
Strip of leather sewn onto insole to which sole is sewn. Shoes made by the welted construction can be easily resoled by removing the sole and re-stitching a fresh one as long as the welt lasts.

Waist
The section around the feet, last or shoe between ball and instep.

Water Resistant Leather
Leather resistant to the penetration of water usually chrome tanned or combination tanned originally heavily greased but other water repelling agents may be used.

Wedge Heel
A heel extended under the waist to the fore part, giving a flat surface in contact with the ground through out. Often combined with a platform.

Vulcanized Rubber
Raw rubber treated by milling with sulphur and heat to allow for moulding.

Vulcanized Construction
Construction in which rubber is heated in a mould to form the bottom of a shoe by the process of vulcanizing.

Vibram
Special rubber compound that ensures high abrasion resistance and optimized grip.

Upper
Portion of shoe which covers the upper surface of the foot. It can be made of variety of materials like leather, canvas, plastic, coated fabric etc.

Vamp
The part of upper between the toe cap and the quarters, including the toe in case of cap less styles.

Veldskoen
A strong suede or leather shoe or boot.

Toe Box
The front area of the shoe that covers the toes. A toe box can be rounded, squared, tapered or pointy.

TPR
(Thermoplastic Rubber) A synthetic rubber related to resin-rubber or a blend of petroleum based synthetics that produce rubber-like qualities but which can be fused by heat and therefore processed into soles by injection moulding.

Traction
Ability of a shoe to provide a sure grip on the surface for which it was designed.

Upper Leather
Leather for making uppers of shoes and boots usually manufactured from calfskins, goatskins, cattle hides etc.

Toe Spring
The upward curvature of the sole at forepart, relative to ground level, when the shoe is on a level surface. It is related to the stiffness of the sole and heel height. The more rigid the sole, the greater toe spring has to be provided.

Tongue
Flap that starts at the vamp of the shoe and goes the length of the top of the shoe. It is padded to offer cushioning from the laces.

Toe Cap
Protective piece added to the exterior of the toe of the shoe

Toe Puff
A stiffener material inserted between outer and lining at toe to help to maintain the shape of the shoe's toe area within the shoe. It can be made of paper board, leather, plastic, or steel depending on the need for toe protection.

Texon®
A cellulose-based insole material that is more resistant to aging and dampness than leather insoles.

Top line
The edge of the upper round the throat of the shoe or boot.

Top Piece/ Top Lift
The layer of leather of a heel which touches the ground. Generally synthetic materials are used, as this part of the shoe is subject to the maximum wear.

Suede Leather
Leathers in which the fibers on the flesh side are cut very short by means of buffing wheels so as to prevent a velvety appearance.

Tanning
A process to convert raw hide into leather by soaking in a liquid containing tannic acid or by the use of mineral salts etc.

Stiffener
Usually of leather board or fiberboard, placed between the lining and upper material at the back of the shoe to improve shape retention of the quarters.

Stitch-down Construction
The bottom edge of the upper is folded outward and stitched to the sole or insole.

Steel Toe Shoes
Steel Toe Shoes have a steel reinforcement in the toe to protect the foot against falling objects. Steel Toe Shoes also often have steel inserts in their soles to prevent puncture from below.

Straights
Shoes designed without distinction of right and left so that each can be used on either foot.

Split Leather
When thick cattle hides are machine split to obtain two layers of leather. The bottom layer is referred to as the split layer. Generally thinner, lighter weight and used in lower-priced shoes or lining.

Sprue
Same as Flash. Occurs in a moulded or vulcanized shoe. Excess PVC or rubber comes out where mould is joined has to be trim off.

Softee Leather
General term used for soft and flexible leather.

Sole Attaching
Process of attaching sole to upper of shoe.

Sole Leather
Leather used for soles of boots and shoes. Sole leather is generally made from thick hides such as those of buffalo or ox. Generally sole leather is vegetable tanned.

Sock
A cover of leather or synthetic material cemented to the insole after the shoe is made to hide tacks or stitches and present a clean even appearance.

Solvent
General term applied to chemical such as acetone, spirit, MEK, Industrial methylated spirit and many others.

Slip Lasted Construction
Sometime known as California Slip Lasted Construction. The upper is stitched to a sock which serves as an insole. The last is then forced in so that an outsole can be attached.

Slipper
A light loose comfortable indoors shoe.

Slip Resistant
Refers to an outsole that is designed to prevent slippage or skidding on most smooth surfaces. Also referred to as non-skid.

Skiver
Split leather used for linings and socks.

Shank
A strip of steel, fibre, wood or leather, inserted between the outsole and the insole at the waist to maintain the curvature of the sole and keep the heel from going under.

Shoe
Either of a pair of foot-coverings of leather, plastic, canvas etc., having a sturdy sole.

Shoe Last
The form on which a shoe is constructed

Side
One half of the hide cut along the backbone.

Skive
Operation in manufacture where edges of leather are trimmed down so that the edge is thinner than the body of the leather, thus reducing the thickness of seams.

Shover
Removable piece of leather or other material attached to a last to add girth at that point only.

Seat
The part of the shoe immediately below the heel of the foot.

Semi Chrome Leather
Leather which has been tanned with vegetable tanning and then re-tanned with chromium salts.

Shoe Tree
Wooden or Plastic device inserted in shoe when not being worn to help them keep their shape.

Setting
A process of moistening and then drying by heat by which the lasted upper is fixed to the shape of last in a few minutes so that the last can be released for further use.

Seam Sealed
A polyurethane (PU) adhesive tape applied with pressure and heat along the seams to cover the stitch holes and edges for full garment waterproofing.

Safety Toe Caps
Protective toe cap fitted to safety footwear.

Sandal
A simple type of shoe construction in which the sole is held on the foot by an open work upper of strips of material.

San Crispino Construction
A type of stitch-down construction. The upper material is flared outward, and wrapped around and under the edge of an extended insole board. The upper is stitched close to the last and cemented to the role.

Safety Boots and Shoes
Safety Shoes are shoes with some form of an added safety feature such as a steel or composite toe cap or slip resistant soles.

Resin Rubber
A synthetic rubber soling material with some superficial resemblance to leather in appearance, finish and feel. It is a copolymer of styrene and butadiene, also known as SBR.

Rub off Finish
A secondary layer of finishing material applied to upper leather designed to be selectively rubbed off during shoe finishing to reveal the tighter primary finish, giving the shoe a hand made individual look.

Reinforcement Tape
Used for reinforcing lines and points of weaknesses, particularly straps and top lines. Most of these tapes are made up of Nylon or other non stretchable fabrics.

Pump Shoe
A low cut vamp lightweight shoe for dancing etc. are commonly known as court shoe.

PVC
(Polyvinyl Chloride) A synthetic plastic material widely used for soling and coated upper material.

PVC Coated Fabric
Upper material made of PVC and fabric backer.

Rand
A strip of leather or sometimes rubber composition, cemented to the margin of the sole projecting beyond the feather line.

Polyurethane Upper Material
Thin sheet of expanded PU with a fabric backer. Usually used in women’s shoes, it has appearance and feel of leather.

PU
(Polyurethane) Synthetic soling material. It is flexible soft and light weight.

Pleating
Folding of upper leather to give a gathered effect.

Plantar
The lower surface of the foot. Sometimes used to describe the insole.

Plasticiser
A chemical component included in PVC to make it flexible for use in soling. Cheap quality plasticisers have an oily character. They tend to migrate, which causes adhesion problems and changes in the character of the soling.

Polyethelene
(PE) A synthetic polymer, composed of many ethylene monomer building blocks, used to make mid-sole and heel counters.

Partial Cup sole
Same construction technique as a full cup sole except that the side wall does not extend the full length of the medial side. A partial cup sole is lighter and more flexible than a full cup sole; usually has an EVA insert.

Platform
An extra component inserted between the insole and the outsole. Platforms are made of various materials like plastics, rubber, cork, wood etc. In some cases they are moulded in one piece with outsole and heel.

Patten or Clogs
Wooden or leather items in the shape of the sole of the shoe that were to be worn with. These shoes were then strapped on over the lighter shoes.

onk Shoe
A closed shoe, most often men's, with a wide strap over the instep fastened with a buckle.

Orthotic
A corrective device made primarily of leather and/or plastic which is placed inside a shoe to correct biomechanical problems. Usually prescribed by a podiatrist.

Outsole
The very bottom of the shoe, the part that contacts the ground.

Oxford Shoe
A man’s style with closed front, that is with the quarters stitched under the vamp.

Nap
Velvety surface of leather or cloth, soft velvety feel of the buffed leather.

Non Woven Fabric
Sheet material comprising fibres bonded together used as a reinforcement for shoe uppers.

Non Woven Insole Material
Made from synthetic fibres and bonded with the small proportion of synthetic rubber.

Nubuck
A chrome tanned leather usually calf or suede which is buffed on the grain side to give a nap surface.

Nylon Tape
Used for reinforcing lines and points of weaknesses, particularly straps and top lines.

Mulling
Uppers are warmed and damped by steam to make them more pliable and easier to last.

Mule
A shoe or slipper without quarters, with any size heel, covering only the front of the foot, leaving back open.

Moccasin
A shoe construction in which the upper and sole are in one piece, and the shoe is closed by stitching in the vamp, not at the back as is usual. Mocassins are generally without insole, which makes the shoe flexible. A slip-on shoe made from soft leather, originally worn by native Americans.

Midsole
A cushioning layer between the outsole and the upper. Materials may include EVA, PU, Micro porous rubber or compression molded EVA. It is the part of the shoe that absorbs shock, provides stability and usually encloses the vendor's cushioning technology.

MEK
(Methyl Ethyl Ketone) Solvent used for wiping the surface of PVC soles to remove plasticiser.

Mineral Tannage
Tannage effected by salts of chromium, aluminum, iron and zirconium.

Micro Porous Rubber
Rubber with a cellular structure. The cells are filled with air and provide support and cushioning. Generally firmer, more durable and slightly heavier than EVA and PU.

Louis Heel
A shaped high heel with graceful curves on the sides and back, with a breasted forepart. Originally designed for King Louis XIV, of France.

Made to Measure
Shoes made on a stock last which corresponds to the measurement of the customers’ foot.

Mesh
A Woven nylon used in upper construction. Mesh has excellent breath-ability. Any fabric, knitted or woven, with an open construction.

Medial
Referring to the inner side (or arch side) of a shoe.

Loafers
A light- weight low leather step-in shoe, without fastening. Usually with a small tongue and saddle trim and a broad flat heel.

Lifts
Layers of leather or leather board composing the heel of a shoe, the lift in contact with the ground is called the top-piece and is frequently of rubber or plastic.

Lacing Hook
A tool used to lace the eyelet holes quickly

Lace Hook
Small hooks inserted like eyelets into boot/ shoe facings to hold the lace for fastening.

Leather
Skin of an animal that is tanned and used in shoesƒ bagsƒ and other accessories.

Leather Board
Sheet material made by shredding pieces of scrap leather, suspending it in water together with a small percentage of rubber or synthetic binding material.