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Pinza Shoes - footwear glossary Category: General > Footwear terms Date & country: 17/05/2018, USA Words: 317

Fitting Stool
A low slanting topped stool upon which the footwear sales man sits when trying with a footwear, it has an edge to rest the foot of the customer while adjusting the footwear.

Eyestay
Reinforcement around the eyelet holes (plastic or metal)

Feather Line or Edge
The boundary line around the upper where it joins the welt or the sole, the corresponding line around an insole or a last.

Fitting Up
A term applied to the gathering together to the bottoming components according to the instruction slip.

Finishing Last
Specially made last on which footwear is generally finished. This last is made in two parts hinged together with half size shorter and half fitting less than the lasting last. The last is rounded more in the heel seat portion.

Embossing
A method of decorating leather by pressing a heated die onto the surface.

EVA
(Ethylene Vinyl Acetate) Chemical compound with rubber properties appropriate for soling in the blown or micro cellular form. A shock-absorbing material that's lighter than polyurethane.

Eyelet
Hole for the laces to pass through, but often embellished as a fashion feature.

Eyelet Tab
The front part of the quarters, overlaying the instep, carrying the eyelets.

Dual Density
Term used to describe some mid-sole or sole designs. One layer is denser than another. Denser layer provides stability and softer layers provide cushioning.

Elasticity
The property of a body or material by which it stretches or under- goes other deformation under stress and resumes its original form when the stress is removed.

Elastomer
Material having elastic properties.

Cuban Heel
A type of heel 4-10 mm high with a straight breast, little or no curvature to back and sides, tapering very slightly to a fairly broad top-piece.

Derby
Men’s boot or shoes with the eyelet tab stitched on the outside of the vamp.

Direct Vulcanizing Process
A construction for soling Rubber Sole where rubber compound is vulcanized directly onto the lasted upper.

Direct Moulded
A construction method by which the sole of PVC, PU, TPR, etc. is moulded directly onto the upper.

Durometer
A scale of 1 to 100 that measures the firmness of a mid-sole material, low numbers being softer than higher numbers.

Cross Trainer
Refers to shoes designed to perform in a variety of functions to meet the needs of multi-sport challenges. Cross Training refers to the activities of an athlete that trains or exercises in a variety of sports.

Crepe
Natural rubber soling material made by drying latex from rubber tree. Very hard wearing and flexible, but slips on wet surface. Small pieces are used in finishing to remove marks on uppers.

Crimping
Process of making folds or pleats in the whole cut uppers to facilitate lasting in Moccasin type of slippers.

Cobbler
A mender or maker of footwear.

Cordwainer
The very first trade guild started in the year 1087.

Corrected Grain (CG) Leather
Leather from which the outer surface of grain has been removed more or less lightly by emery wheel.

Copper Toe
A copper boxing or lip used to protect the toe in the children shoes.

Cow Boy Boots
Long boots with high tops and high heels worn by western cow boys

Cobbler
Cack

Collor
A stitched-on strip of leather around the outside of the top of the boot or shoe. Sometimes the collor is padded which provides for a more secure heel fit and helps prevent debris from entering the shoe.

Colour Fastness
Resistance of the Colour of materials to the different agencies like light, water etc. to which these materials may be exposed during the manufacture and their subsequent use.

Coated Fabric
Fabrics coated with PU, PVC or Rubber.

Congress Gaiter
An ankle high shoe with leather or cloth top adjusted to the ankle by a gusset or rubber.

Construction
Attachment of upper to sole unit. Methods include

Consumables
A term applied to those articles which are incidental or accessory to the manufacturer such as laces, polishes, creams, cements, waxes, buckles, heel plates, shoe brushes, insoles etc. Also termed as findings.

Comb
The section of the last corresponding to the forepart of the foot immediately beneath the ankle. Shoe lasts are much thinner at this part than that of the foot and the hollowness in the comb assists in enabling the shoe quarters to grip the foot properly.

Composite Method
Riveted, stitched and screwed method of construction used for heavy boots.

Combat Boot
A special type of boot with high heel and eyelets up to the highest point worn now-a-days by wrestlers or army men and originally by Roman warriors.

Corrective Footwear
Specially made footwear for defective foot to overcome abnormalities in the foot.

Corrected Grain Leather
Leather from which the outer surface of grain has been removed more or less lightly by emery wheel.

Clicking
Traditional name for cutting out of the upper components of a shoe with the help of templates or clicking dies.

Counter Point
A point on the back line of the last at a distance of one-fifth of the standard last length from the bottom edge of the last. It may also be lowered according to the changes in fashion.

Clicking Board
Board used for clicking of uppers, made up of plastics, timber blocks or any other suitable material.

Clicking Knife, Hand
A knife with wooden or plastic handle with a metallic sleeve which is tightened by screwing the handle holding the blade, known as extension blade.

CLE
Council for leather Export.

Clearance Pulls
Pulls given for clearing feather edges in lining, stiffeners, toe caps, etc., prior to fastening with tacks during lasting.

Climbing Boot
A strong, warm and waterproof boot with nails fitted at the bottom and round edge of the sole with a special type of staples.

Closing
Process of assembling cut components of the upper by stitching or other fastening method.

Clicking Knife, Press
A knife made of high speed steel to the shape of the component to be cut, used for clicking by machine. Also know as Clicking Dies.

Circles
Horsed shoe shape oval or round tube let of steel, to be drawn into the heels of shoes to prevent undue wear.

Clogs
A low cut boot or shoe with heavy soles of wooden or cork and used for wet ground.

Closed front
The front of an oxford shoe or other men’s shoe style having the eyelet tabs stitched under the vamp (compare derby, oxford)

Chappal
Sandals without back straps.

Chrome Tanned
Leather tanned solely with salts of chromium.

Chukka Boot
Men’s low boot with cap less vamp and high cut quarters that cover the ankles. Normally with two holes for lace but not more than three eyelets are used. Also know as Jodhpur Boots.

Channeling
The production of groove or channel in the leather in which the stitching is laid while attaching the sole and other parts.

Celastic Toe-Puff
A hard toe-puff made of raised cotton cloth, impregnated with cellulose. Softening of toe-puff is done by dipping into solvent before insertion and quick lasting of the shoe is necessary after insertion.

Cemented Construction
The method of construction in which the bonding of sole to the upper after securing to the insole is done by means of a glue (cement), usually heat and pressure activated.

Cellulose Board
Top quality insole material made from alpha cellulose of the highest quality with a polymeric blend.

Cement
A general term for adhesive material in footwear industry. Application of cement on roughened portion of the footwear is known as cementing.

Cement Lasted
Method of lasting where the forepart upper is attached to the insole with adhesive instead of tacks.

Cack
Smallest soled shoe without heel and soft upper for infants.

CAD
(Computer Aided Design) a shoe design is prepared on the screen of a computer. It is then put into the computer memory and can then be modified and sectional patterns produced and all grading completed.

Calfskin Leather
Leather made from the skin of young cattle. Soft, pliable, light and with few surface flaws. Among the highest quality of all leathers.

Calking Machine
Appliance to depress or shape the inner sole to make it conform to the shape.

Canvas Boot or Shoe
Boots or Shoes of canvas upper and rubber bottom in which unvulcanised rubber sole is directly attached with the upper and then vulcanised.

Cambrelle®
Camtex Fabric Limited's brand of nylon material used in the linings of shoes. Keeps the foot dry and comfortable. It is completely breathable and rapidly absorbs foot perspiration.

Cape
A very soft leather much used for comfort shoes. It is also used for gloves, and is often referred to as glove leather.

Carbon Rubber
Rubber which has a high carbon content. Carbon rubber outsoles provide excellent durability but generally are heavier, less flexible and less cushioned than blown rubber outsoles.

Casual Footwear
Footwear of light construction, suitable for casual wear which is easy to slip on without any fastening device.

Buffing
The process of removing thin layer of grain side of sole or insole by use of abrasive to give it a finer look or to allow penetration of colour and prevent cracking.

Butted Seam
Seam produced by joining two components, edge to edge, by zigzag seam.

Brannock
A foot size measuring device with a sliding gauge to measure fitting.

Brogue Shoe
A balamoral type of shoe, the upper comprising several parts with perforations and gimping along the margins, together with a punched and gimped wing cap. A brogue effect is often achieved in other styles of shoes by punching and gimping.

Bunching
Terms referred to the bunching or depositing of bottom filling material at different places after shifting from its own place and forming humps and causing annoyance to the wearer.

Bow
A decorative accessory for women's shoes sometimes on vamp or sometimes at the ends of the laces.

Bontex Board
Brand of insole material of Bonded Fibers.

Boot
A type of shoe reaching above the ankle, often to the knee.

Bootee
A shoe having an upper extending slightly above the ankle, boot type, with warm lining, usually worn by women and children in cold weather. Designed for fashion and comfort, with upper of soft , flexible material.

Bottom Filler
The material normally cork sheet, leather board or leather, used to fill up the cavity formed by the lasted over margin of the upper and insole.

Boxing
The final operation in which the shoes are packed in boxes in pairs, ready to go out of the factory.

Box Toe
A stiffener used to maintain and reinforce the shape of shoe toe, preserve the toe room allowed within the shoe, and to protect the wearer's toes from blows. Metal Box Toes are used in some safety shoes.

Blucher Bal Shoe
A Blucher Shoe in which the vamp is stitched overlapping the quarter.

Blake Sewn Construction
Method of construction in which upper is directly attached to sole. The upper is lasted to the insole and the sole is then attached by vertical chain or locks stitched. In case of hand method the attachment is made by lock stitches only.

Blocked Toe
The toe of a footwear without any opening at the toe.

Blind Eyelets
Eyelets inserted and clenched on the lining, surface of the eyelet is not apparent on the outside of the footwear.

Bifurcated Heel Pins
Round parallel shank pins used for stitching heels, made from screw wire which are without heads or points, but whose ends are bifurcated to increase their holding power.

Bed Lasting
An operation by which upper at the toe and seat is wiped to proper position on the Insole and kept in position either by cement, wire or tacks.

Bellows Tongue
A broad tongue in a lace up shoe which is stitched to the quarter at each side.

Binding
Fabric tape or leather strip covering raw edges of leather round top line to hold outer and lining together and give a neat, durable finish. The covering of edges of the insole of ladies footwear with a strip of leather or fabric.

Beach Sandals
Simple sandals for beach (sea side) use, usually of rubber or plastic.

Beading
The turning in of edge of an upper section either skived or unskived. Sometimes the skived edge is turned over a cotton tape or tubular decoration for enhancing the appearance of the footwear and to give more strength at the edges.

Beveling
Reducing the substance of certain components of the shoe bottom by skiving such as Insole seat beveling.

Belly
The underside of a hide or skin between fore and hind legs.

Benching
Final faking and fiddling to the shoes, after having passed through all the finishing operations, for any slight imperfection either in upper or bottom.

Bend
Sole leather made from the rear portion of a heavy cattle hide divided along the line of the backbone, after removal of bellies and shoulder.

Back Splitting
Reduction of sole substance at the heel, seat and waist, mainly done for Louise Heel Construction.

Ballerina
Flat heeled (not more than one lift) pump, light weight, new-cut type shoes used by women and constructed by direct method of attachment and have similarity with ballet shoe.

Ball Line
A line drawn across the widest portion of a foot or last.

Ball Girth
The circumference of the foot around the middle of the big and small toe joints.

Backer
Fabric material laminated or used to give reinforcement to weak material to give it strength and to help it stand up. The process of laminating such material is known as backing.

Bagged Edge
A method of joining of the quarter top edge all round the ankle so that the seam joining the lining with the quarters is about 5 mm below the folded edge of the quarters so that no stitches can be seen on outside.

Balmoral
A type of Gents' Shoe having a closed front-laced ankle. It is characterized by the vamp wings extended to both sides, to form a golosh.