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Pinza Shoes - footwear glossary Category: General > Footwear terms Date & country: 17/05/2018, USA Words: 317

Lace Stay
A strip of leather applied on the front of a laced boot or shoe to strengthen and reinforce the eyelets or eyelet holes.

Lap Iron
A small slab of iron approximately of the same shape as a half sole, held in worker’s lap to serve as a kind of anvil, on which the leather can be hammered.

Lamination
Joining the faces of sheets of material together. This gives greater strength than each material would have on its own, and simplifies handling.

Lapped Seam
A seam produced by laying one part over another and stitching together.

Lapstone
A shoemaker's stone held in the lap and upon which he beats leather or soles in order to give them a counted shape or on which he pounds down seams or folded edges with flat faced hammer.

Last Girth Scale
The amount of increase and decrease in girth measurement of a last in relation to its increase and decrease in sizes and fittings.

Lasting Allowance
The allowance provided at the free edge of the upper to enable the upper to be lasted properly.

Lasting
The operation of stretching the upper over the last so that it conforms to the shape of the last, at the same time attaching it to the insole.

Lasting Jack
An iron stand fitted with a last peg on which the last with the upper is placed during lasting.

Lasting Tack
Small tack used to secure upper to insole. Also used for temporary attachment of insole to last.

Jellies
Footwear made entirely from PVC by the injection moulding process.

kiltie
casual shoe with fringed tongue that overlaps fastening at the instep.

kitten heel
low heel that tapers sharply to narrow base.

Latex Rubber
The milky emulsion of rubber particles exuded from the bark of the rubber tree. Used for making natural crepe rubber and adhesives.

Instep Position of Foot
A point on the top of the foot just above the arch which is distinguished by its bony prominence.

Inner lining
An additional lining, usually of cotton drill between the vamp lining and vamp of the footwear to aid in preserving the shape during wear.

Ironing Out
A finishing process of footwear by electrically heated iron.

Iron
A measurement for the thickness of leather. One iron is equal to 0.53 mm approximately.

Interlaced
A sheet made by interlacing strips of leather or other material and used for making the whole or part of an upper of footwear.

Interlining
A material used between the footwear upper and the lining to increase softness and plumpness of the upper material.

Instep
The upper side of the foot between the toes and the ankle.

Instep Girth Measurement
The girth measurement of a last or foot taken at the middle of the waist through the instep point.

Hyperidrosis
Excessive sweating of the foot.

Invisible Eyelets
See Blind Eyelets.

Invisible Sole
When a half sole is spliced or beveled to show no edge at point of union.

Internal Wedge
The wedge heel inserted and stuck in the finished footwear. The heel is then covered with a soft rubber pad, this needs a special last having wood where the heel would normally fit.

Inverted Machine
A pulling over machine where the operator has a full view of the footwear while the pulling over is done.

Hot Melts
Thermoplastic adhesive of polyamide or polyester. Polyamide and polyester hot melts are generally used for lasting.

Horsing
placing of upper on last in a proper position for lasting.

Hurrache Sandal
A hand braided leather sandal without a counter and with the upper laced up to the sole.

Hunting Boot
A laced boot made with bellows’ tongue and blucher cut with waterproof sole.

Hydrophilic
Water friendly. Does not hold water in leather or any of the materials used in the shoe. Allows water to escape and the shoe to dry quickly.

House Shoe
Another name for slippers.

Hot Blasting
giving some form of heat treatment to the leather upper to smooth out any wrinkles and to tighten up the grain surface of the leather.

Heel Breast
The front surface of the shoe heel.

Heel Grip
Small suede-covered pad which can be stuck to counter lining of shoe to reduce size at heel and prevent foot slipping out of the shoe.

Heel Height
The vertical distance from the center of the top piece where it contacts the ground to the seat of the shoe.

Hot Puffs
A type of puff made of heavy woven cotton cloth impregnated with a molten mixture of rosin and wax. It is hard in nature and requires softening after its insertion by heat.

Heel Attachment
By braided nails, screws or staples. It is vital that this is correctly done, particularly in the case of high heels, otherwise the heel may come off.

Heel / Toe Counters
The heel and toe counters is provided for support and help the upper wrap around the foot. They also help protect the heel and toes from impact.

Heel
A heel is the bottom's back part of a shoe or boot that provides elevation. The styling and construction of a heel may vary (i.e. stacked; stilletto; spiked; sculptured; kitten).

Heat Setting
giving an upper more permanent shape retention while it is on the last by the application of heat or steam for a short period instead of longer period under strain.

Helcor Leather
Helcor-Leder-Tec's brand name for a carbon or ceramic coating added to the leather during the tanning process. This coating makes the leather puncture resistant, tear resistant and helps reduce abrasion scuffs.

Heel To Ball Measurement
The measured distance of the ball of the foot from the heel end.

Half Bellows
A full length tongue attached to the vamp and all the way up on both sides of the quarters.

Half Soles
Soles of half length, extended usually about 12 mm below the joint line, used by repairers.

Half Sock
A piece of leather or suitable material to cover the inner sole partly. This particular type covers the seat and waist terminates at the joint.

Half Double Sole
An out sole composed of one full sole to heel with a slip sole above it.

Gypsy Seam
A seam running from throat, straight down fronts of a boot or shoe to the toe, making a vamp.

Hallux Regidus
This is condition in which the big toe joint is enlarged, and movement in it is very limited or absent. The toe itself is not deflected from its normal position, as in hallux valgus.

Hallux Valgus
Hallux valgus is a displacement or buckling of the bones of the first motatarso

Grain
The pattern of pores and other surface characteristics of the animal concerned, visible on the outer surface of a hide or skin after the hair or wool have been removed. The grain pattern provides an easy means of identifying different types of leathers.

Grain Leather
Any leather on which the original natural grain has been changed or altered to any degree by any process.

Gusset
A side piece or insert of rubber webbing in the side of congress shoe.

Gum Boots
These are knee high waterproof rubber boots generally used in chemical factories to protect the feet against injurious chemicals and also against the rain water.

Golosh
An overshoe in waterproof material from protection against rain, snows, mud, etc. Also refers to the part of a boot which covers the foot, as opposed to the leg.

Grindery
Trade name for tacks, eyelets, tapes, shanks etc., used in shoe making.

Grits
Are the roughness of the surface of abrasive materials.

Gore Tex
W.L. Gore & Associates Inc., brand name for a waterproof-breathable membrane. The material is impermeable to water droplets but allows water vapor to pass through it. In footwear it is used between the upper material and the lining.

Glace Kid
Leather with high gloss made from goatskins by chrome tanning used for making high class shoes. Also called Glazed Kid.

Full Grain Leather
The entire thickness of the hide is used, unlike suede, top grain or Nubuck. Benefits are

Gibson
Women’s lace-up style in which the quarters are laid over the vamp and drawn together by a lace. Equivalent to a men’s derby.

Girth
The measurement around the wide parts of the foot, namely the ball or joint.

Full Sole
The whole cut sole used for costly footwear.

Full Vamp
A vamp that extends forward full size and is lasted under instead of being cut off and sewed to the tip on the under-side.

Fudge Wheel
A rolling wheel is fixed in between two clamps which will mark the impression on the edge of the soles as a decoration.

Full Welt
Welt of full length, that is of such a length to run all round the sole-edge.

Full Sock
A piece of leather or fabric pasted or kept on the insole of the shoe to cover any grindery and stitching inside the shoe. Sometimes full sock is also provided for better appearance.

French Foot
Made with a single seam in the center of sole.

French Heel
A heel which is similar to Louis heel made by wood covered with leather.

Frontier Pattern of Chaplis
This pattern of footwear was originally evolved by the North West Frontier Province (Pakistan) tribes as a sound, strong, cheap and hard-wearing footwear particularly suited to the rigorous task involved in climbing rocks and hills.

French Curves
Various model curves moulded in sets in celluloid used to obtain satisfactory curves in drawing and designing of patterns.

Folded Edge
The edge of the skived upper which has been turned over to give a neat finish.

French Binding
A method of finishing the top-line by binding it with tape of fabric or plastic material.

Folding Skive
The skive done to facilitate folding or turning-in of an edge of upper leather. This is made usually on twice the width to be folded, plus about one millimeter to cover the thickness of the material.

Folding
The most usual word for an upper edge treatment where a narrow margin of the edge is folded over, skived and secured by adhesive, also called beading.

Foot Form
A name for last or footwear made in close conformity to the natural outline of the foot.

Forepart
The front part of the shoe or sole, from the waist.

Foot Hold
A low rubber over shoe having no heel but adjusted by a light heel strap.

Football Boots
Boots made of thick leather, unlined and is either machine sewn or riveted. They have no heels and the soles are covered with studs arranged in various patterns on the soles and heels to give the wearer a firm grip.

Foot Bed
The part of the sole that your foot lies directly upon. Ideally, it is removable, comfortable, and contoured to provide moderate cushioning.

Flannel
A raised cotton cloth used for inner lining of shoes.

Flap Setting
An operation by which the leather sole edge covering the heel seat and breast area (Louis heel) is set.

Forme
The pattern, in a flat, representing as nearly as practicable the shape of the contoured last, from which the upper component shapes are derived.

Foxing
A thin strip of rubber attached by cement vertically runlet, the edge of some shoes.

Footwear Components
Any fabricated or semi-fabricated component made of various kinds of materials or combination of materials such as leather, canvas, textiles, wood and synthetics for use in the manufacture of footwear.

Flap Splitting
Dividing the sole for Louis heel at the seat to allow a part to go up the heel and the rest under the heel.

Flap Sticking
Sticking up or attaching the flap to the breast and top of the heel (Louis heel construction) with the help of glue or any other suitable adhesive.

Flanging Upper
Turning out the edge of the upper kept as lasting allowance, instead of turning it in, in lasting operation for veldskoen method.

Flat Fitting
Positioning of section of the upper on a flat base prior to stitching.

Flat Foot
Human foot in which the arch or arches specially the internal metatarsal arch, have either been broken due to some reason or have not been developed as in normal foot.

Flap Trimming
An operation by which the split sole edge of heel breast area and seat area (Louis heel) is trimmed.

Flare
Refers to the width of the heel at the bottom of the outer sole in relation to the width of the heel at the top of the outsole. Normally a moderate amount of flare, i.e., wider at the bottom, improves stability and motion control.

Flexibility
The ease with which the bottom or upper components of a footwear can be bent. This is one of the requisite properties of a footwear component which facilitates to easy bending of footwear components along with foot movement during walking.

Flat Last
A last with little arch or toe spring.

Flats
A general term for shoe styles with low wedge heels.

Flattened Foot
A term foot once normal but had fallen down through changes in position of ones.

Fiberboard
A generic stiffening material made from synthetic or natural fibers bonded with resin or latex that softens with use. Often used for heel/toe counters.

Finishing Footwear
The final operation performed on footwear after constructional work has been completed to improve quality of the footwear by making the edge resistant to water and by improving its appearance.

Flexors
The muscles of the sole of the foot, the contraction of which bring the foot in a line with the leg.