Copy of `Inland Lapidary - Lapidary terms`
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Inland Lapidary - Lapidary terms
Category: General technical and industrial > Gems and Jewels
Date & country: 24/10/2013, USA
Words: 404
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quartz One of the most abundant minerals in the Earth's crust, chemical formula is SiO2, forms six-sided crystals and has no cleavage. It has a moh's hardness of 7. It has many varieties including Amethyst, Citrine, Smokey Quartz, Rose Quartz, Chalcedony, and Tiger's eye among others. Chalcedony in particular has many sub-varieties. ^top
quoit A type of brooch (often circular) popular during Saxon times. It was affixed with a single, straight, unclasped pin. It is thought to be an evolutionary link between Roman belt devices and the modern belt buckle.
radiant cut A method of cutting rectangular stones invented in the 1970's so that they have the sparkle of brilliant cut round stones. The shape is a rectangle with the corners clipped off - the length : width ratio is usually from 1.5:1 to 1.75:1. This cut has from 58-70 facets: The top of the stone is emerald cut with about 25 facets above the girdle, but the bottom of the stone has brilliant cut facets with about 36 facets below the girdle.
rati An Indian unit of weight that is used for gemstones. A rati is equal to 0.91 carats. The rati has varied in the past and in different regions.
refraction When light enters a medium with a different optical density (like a gemstone), the light is bent at an angle and also changes its speed.
refractive index Measure of how light is sent back to the eye from the stone. A higher refractive index indicates a brighter stone. Some stones are doubly refractive, which means that they split light into two different paths. Calcite is an example of double refraction; in very clear rhombs, it will double letters on paper if read through.
regard ring A ring set with colored stones, the first letters of which spell the word
repouss A raised high relief design on the front of a metal object made by hammering, embossing or punching the reverse side of the metal to form the design from the back side out.
rhinestone A simulated diamond made from rock crystal, glass or acrylic. Originally, rhinestones were rock crystals gathered from the river Rhine. Their availability greatly increased around 1775 when the Alsatian jeweler George Frederic Strass had the idea to coat the lower side of glass with metal powder imitating diamonds.
rhodium Rhodium is a white precious metal. Rhodium is extremely expensive and is often used to plate precious and base metals, giving jewelry a hard, platinum-like sheen.
ring size Rings are sized using a graduated cone (a mandrel) with markings denoting the ring sizes. The ring is put on the cone and its size is read where it fits snugly on the cone. To size a finger, a finger-ring gauge is used. Sizes in the US and Europe are numerical; sizes in the UK are alphabetical.
rivi Choker type necklace that is a continuous line of gemstones usually of graduated or equal size stones.
roccaille Jewelry whose design is based on sea life, sea shells, or rocks.
rock crystal The purest form of quartz and a semi-precious stone.
rolled gold Early 19th century type of gold plating where a very thin sheet of gold that is laminated to a lesser metal (usually brass). The two layers of metal are heated under pressure to fuse them together. The sheet is them rolled into a very thin sheet and then used to make jewelry or other objects. Jewelry made from rolled gold wear well over time. Rolled gold pieces are marked rolled gold plate, R.G.P., or plaqu
rondelle A pierced piece of metal or gemstone strung between the beads in a necklace.
rope necklace Also called a sautoir, it is any necklace longer than opera length.
rose cut Also called the rosette cut for diamonds was invented in the 17th century and its use continued until the 18th century. The rose cut has a flat base and triangular facets (usually 24). This cut wastes little wastage stone, but is not nearly as reflective as the brilliant cut, which was invented later.
rough Minerals or rocks in their natural state that have not been cut.
roulz A metal alloy that consists of about copper, nickel, and silver. Ruolz is named for the French chemist and musician Vicomte Henri de Roulz, who invented the alloy in the 1800s.
round brilliant cut A round shaped gem cut having 58 facets, 33 on the crown and 25 on the pavilion.
ruthenium Abbreviated Ruth or Ru, is a precious metal that belongs to the platinum group of metals. In jewelry, ruthenium is added to platinum alloys; about 5 to 10 percent ruthenium can be added to platinum to harden and strengthen the alloy. It is atomic number is 44. ^top
s A bodice ornament set with gemstones in a bowknot shape.
safety catch A secondary closure, usually on a fine bracelet or necklace, used in case the primary clasp opens, preventing the loss of the jewelry. It is often a hinged, snapping loop that is permanently attached to one side of the clasp (often a box clasp), and, when the bracelet is closed, snaps onto the other side of the clasp.
safety chain A secondary closure, usually on a fine bracelet or watch, used in case the primary clasp opens, preventing the loss of the bracelet. It is usually a chain that is permanently attached to one side of the bracelet, and attaches to the other side with a spring ring clasp (or other type of clasp).
safety clasp Describes various designs of a secure type of closure on a piece of jewelry. On pins and brooches, a safety clasp often refers to a long pin on a hinge that can be held or released with a secure clasp - often a rotating circle within a circle.
satin finish A finish on a metal between a matte finish and a brilliant one. This semi-glossy finish is done by making shallow parallel lines on the surface of the metal, reducing its reflectivity.
sautoir Also known as a rope, it is a necklace longer than opera-length often with an ornament (a tassel or pendant) at the end. Sautoirs were common during the Edwardian era.
scarab A scarab is a type of beetle. The ancient Egyptians used stones carved in the shape of scarabs extensively in their jewelry and other decorations.
scatter pins Small pins that are worn together in small groups.
schiller Is an iridescent or bronze-like luster occurring in some minerals, referred to as labradorescence when it occurs in feldspars. This optical effect is caused by submicroscopic thin layers or flakes of inclusions (lamella) contained within the mineral. These layers can produce a bronze-like luster, golden iridescence, red color-play (as in sunstone), and/or a blue-green sheen (as in labradorite) that flashes when viewed from certain angles. Layers of shiller can also block reflected light, decreasing the stone's brightness. (From the German term for play of colors or glitter)
seal Engraved (intaglio) of stone or metal used to create an impression on a substance such as wax or clay. Once extensively used as a means of identification; they were only owned and used by relatively important people. Seals were usually mounted in rings or hung on a chain.
setting A method of securing a stone or other ornament in a piece of jewelry. There are many different types of settings, including the collet, claw, Tiffany, cut-down, pav
shank The part of a ring that encircles the finger.
sheen The reflected light which come from within a stone. see luster.
signet ring A ring with a design cut into it which can be impressed into hot wax. In older times, it was used to seal and verify that correspondence was from who one thought it was from.
silk A whitish cloud of fine inclusions in a stone which cause a star or eye ray effect to be reflected off a gem's surface.
silver 800 Is silver with a fineness of 800 meaning it contains 800 parts per thousand (or 80 percent) silver and 200 parts per thousand (or 20 percent) copper. Silver 800 is used for casting.
simulant, simulated A material used to imitate a particular gemstone. Different colors of glass have been used for many years to imitate various gemstones. Famous diamond simulants include YAG (Yttrium Aluminum Garnet), CZ (Cubic Zirconia), and recently Moissanite.
slab A slice of rock or mineral from which cabochons are traced out and cut.
slab saw A diamond saw designed to cut slabs from rough material.
sleeper A small hoop-earring made of gold that is used to keep the hole in a pierced ear open.
slide A jeweled fastener, which slides onto a chain or fabric ribbon.
solder 1. Metal alloy used to join other pieces of metal. Solders melt at a lower temperature than the metals to be joined.
solitaire A ring set with a single stone, often a diamond.
specific gravity Is a comparison of an objects weight with the weight of an equal volume of water. Specific gravity measures the density of a material.
spectroscope Instrument that is used to identify gemstones. It works by determining the light waves that a stone absorbs; different stones absorb different wavelengths of light.
split ring A tightly-coiled ring used as an jewelry finding; it can attach charms to a charm bracelet or a clasp to a necklace or bracelet.
spring ring Also known as a bolt ring, it is a hollow circular metal fastening ring with a spring opening. A tiny spring keeps the arm of this clasp closed. It is used to attach two other rings or links of a necklace or bracelet. The spring ring was invented early in the 1900's. Jewelry made prior to 1900 or so will not have a spring ring clasp.
sprue Metal bar attached to casting left from the channel used to allow metal into the mold. (see lost wax).
square cut / squarillion cut A square-cut stone. This fancy cut is relatively new and is also known as a Princess or Quadrillion cut.
SS Abbreviation for sterling silver.
star setting Where a gem is set within an engraved star; the gem is secured by a small grain of metal soldered to the base of each ray of the star. This type of setting was popular in the 1890s.
step cut Benerally used for colored stones. This cut is rectangular to square and has many facets parallel to the edges of the stone.
sterling silver An alloy of silver containing 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals (fineness of 925), usually copper to give strength while preserving the ductility of the silver and a high precious metal content. Other metals can replace the copper, usually with the intent to improve various properties of the basic sterling alloy such as reducing casting porosity, eliminating firescale, and increasing resistance to tarnish. These replacement metals include germanium, zinc, platinum as well as a variety of other additives including silicon and boron.
stomacher A very large bodice ornament, usually triangular, filling the area between the neckline and the waistline, also known as a corsage ornament.
strap necklace A mesh chain with pendants suspended by short, fine chain resembling a fringe; an Archaeological Revival style during the Victorian period.
strapwork Decorative pattern in the form of interlaced and crossed straight bands resembling straps.
strass A high content leaded glass which is faceted to imitate diamonds or backed with colored foils to imitate other gemstones. Developed by Frederic Strauss in the 18th century.
swag A motif used on a piece of jewelry of festoons of foliage, fruit and flowers.
symmetry Uniformity of a stone's shape and faceting from one side to another.
synthetic stone A manmade gemstone which is chemically identical to a natural stone. Typically synthetics have fewer or no flaws unlike natural gemstones. Synthetics tend to be less expensive than naturals. ^top
table The large, flat area at the top of a cut gemstone.
temper To strengthen or harden metal (or glass) by heating it or by heating then cooling it. Harder tempers are stronger, more spring-like, and more brittle (when they are bent, they may break). Softer tempers are weaker but bend easily.
terminal The decorated ends of a necklace or bangle usually with stylized heads of a ram, lion, dragon, etc.
thermoluminescent Minerals that emit bright light when heated. For example, chlorophane is a variety of fluorite that emits bright green light when heated.
tiara A head ornament worn in the crown position.
tie bar A piece of men's jewelry used to secure a necktie. A tie bar usually has a decorative, bar-shaped front, and a clip on the back that grasps the two parts of the tie.
tie tack A piece of men's jewelry used to secure a necktie. Ithas a decorative front, and a pin on the back that goes through both layers of the tie. Attached to the reverse of the pin is a chain with a bar that is meant to go through a buttonhole to secure the tie loosely to the shirt.
tiffany setting a ring with a high, six-pronged solitaire diamond on a simple circular band. This design was introduced by Tiffany & Co. in 1886.
titanium A strong, light metal (Ti) more and more frequently used in jewelry. It is grayish in color and occurs as a native element.
toggle clasp Also called a bar and ring clasp, it is a jewelry fastener in which a bar can be inserted into a ring to fasten a piece of jewelry. It is used to attach the two ends of a necklace or bracelet.
torque (torc) A open ended neck ring popular in ancient times, particularly among Celtic peoples.
torsade Necklace made of many strands that are twisted together.
translucent A gemstone characteristic where some light is able to pass through the stone, but it is not clear enough to see through.
transparent A gemstone characteristic where light passes freely through the stone, and objects can be clearly seen through the material.
trapeze cut A gemstone cut into an equilateral triangle with a flat top.
treated The term given to a broad range of processes that a gem may be subjected to in order to improve its apperance. While most treatment processes are permanant, some may be temporary.
tremblant, tremblar Jewelry with a trembling effect when the wearer moved produced by elements set upon stiff wires that move (en tremblant).
trillion cut A triangular cut based upon a brilliant style cut and not a stepped facet. The corners of the triangle are truncated (cut short) and there are a variety of facets, giving this cut a sparkling brilliance.
trim saw A small diamond wet saw used to rough out the shape of cabochons prior to grinding them into final shape.
triplet A manufactured stone that is made by sandwiching three thin layers of stones together. For example, an opal triplet has a top, protective layer of clear quartz, a thin middle layer of opal, and a base layer of dark, color-enhancing matrix, usually black onyx or ironstone.
troy weight Measured for precious metals like gold and silver. It has units of pennyweights, ounces, and pounds. Troy ounces and pounds are different from everyday US measures.
tubogas A flexible tubular chain, sometimes referred to as gas pipe.
tumbler A motor powered rotating cylinder that smoothes and rounds the surfaces of stones, increasing their luster. As the stones tumble around the cylinder, often in a slurry congaing an abrasive of a specific grit, become smoother and more polished.
tutti-fruitti Jewelry set with multi colored gems carved in shapes of leaves, flowers and berries and often in a basket design.
twinning Tendency of some crystals to intergrow in a distinct way or form specific, repeated patterns. See penetration twinning, repeated twinning, and contact twinning. ^top
ultraviolet light (UV) Light energy that is not visible to the human eye, and which has very short wavelengths. Many minerals display fluorescence under this type of light.
vermeil Gold covering a less precious metal, usually sterling silver.
Victorian era The time when Queen Victoria ruled Great Britain (1837-1901). Many different styles of jewelry developed during this era.
vitreous Description meaning glass like.
volcanic glass Another name for obsidian.
vulcanite A hard, moldable, polished dark colored, anging from brown to black, early rubber. Vulcanite was produced by adding sulfur to vulcanized rubber. It was used for combs, ornaments, and buttons. Also called ebonite, it not the same as gutta percha.
weld The process of joining two pieces of metal using very high heat. Rolled gold is formed in this fashion.
whiplash curve Flowing lines that bend and twist as in Art Nouveau designs.
white gold Gold that has been alloyed with metals such as Nickel or Zinc to bleach out the gold color.
windowed Condition where a gemstone is cut below the critical angle (shallow cut, or spread cut), allowing the light to pass through the stone instead of bouncing back and making the gem brilliant. ^top
wish bracelet A piece of jewelry with beads. Popular folklore holds that the wearer should make a wish while putting the bracelet on, and rub the beads every day. When the bracelet finally comes off, the wish is believed to have come true.
YAG An abbreviation for a diamond simulant. This stands for Yttrium Aluminum Garnet, a synthetic substance.
yellow gold Gold that has been alloyed with a mix of 50% copper and 50% silver.
