Copy of `Inland Lapidary - Lapidary terms`
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Inland Lapidary - Lapidary terms
Category: General technical and industrial > Gems and Jewels
Date & country: 24/10/2013, USA
Words: 404
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lavaliere A chain from which an ornament or gemstone hangs in the center.
leaf Paper-thin sheets of metals. Gold, silver, platinum, and copper are rolled or pounded into metallic leaf which can be applied to surfaces.
lentil cut A cabochon cut in which the upper and lower portions of the stone are identical.
liver of sulfur A chemical used to oxidize silver and copper.
lobster claw A type of chain clasp that looks like a lobster's claw. This type is relatively popular because it is durable and easy to hook.
lock ring The name given by archaeologists to a type of jewelry from Bronze Age Europe
locket A jewelry setting or pendant which opens on a hinge revealing an interior that can hold additional items, generally pictures.
lost wax casting A process of casting that follows these steps:
loupe Small magnifying lens used to observe certain aspects of a gemstone. Loupes usually have a magnification level of 10x.
lozenge A step-cut gem with a diamond shape.
luster 1. The reflection of light on a given mineral's surface, classified by intensity and quality.
m Term for mixed diamond sizes weighing more than carat.
m Classification used in the sorting of diamonds weighing less than .20 carat.
mabepearl A cultured blister pearl.
machine stamping Also known as die-stamping, is a process where sheet metal is cut and shaped between two dies, forming a pattern in relief. Two steel dies are used, the male die has the design in cameo (protruding); the female die has the design hollowed out. The male die is put on top of the metal, the female die is put on the underside of the metal. The press is forcefully brought down onto the dies and metal, forcing the metal into the shape of the mold. Many medallions and mass-produced jewelry findings are made this way.
malleable Metals easily worked with a hammer or a roller. Gold and sterling silver are very malleable metals.
mandrel A metal rod used to coil molten glass in order to make a bead.
marcasite Pyrite that is facetted into rose cuts and set into silver or pewter jewelry.
marquise cut A stone cut in an oval with pointed ends or a boat-shaped stone.
matte finish A surface finish created by sandblasting or brushing that has a soft dull look.
melon bead A hollow and ribbed bead popular in the Etruscan period and in the 1930
melting point The temperature it takes a certain material to change from a solid to liquid state.
memento mori Jewel that is a reminder of death.
memorial jewel Jewel that is made in memory of a loved one, often containing hair from that person and frequently decorated with enamel.
memory wire A tough, stiff wire that retains its shape. It is often used for necklaces and bracelets.
metal Any of a category of electropositive (positively charged) elements or combinations of them in the form of minerals that exhibit a metallic luster, malleability, ductility, and conductivity.
metallic Having the attributes of a metal. Sometimes can be used to describe a mineral with a metallic luster even though it is not a true metal.
metallic luster Exhibiting the luster of a metal, which is opaque and reflective. Some minerals exhibit a metallic luster even though they are not true metals.
metallurgy The science and procedures involved in extracting metals from ore, refining the metals, blending them into alloys, and fashioning useful objects from them. Three forms of metallurgy are hydrometallurgy, electrometallurgy, and pyrometallurgy.
micro mosaic Mosaic of very small colored glass pieces (tessarae) inlaid in glass or hardstone.
micron A unit of length equal to 0.001 millimeter
Milanese chain Chain consisting of interwoven rows of small links forming a mesh.
milk and honey effect When the apparent coloring of a stone changes from milky to the color of honey as the angle of the light changes. When a light is shined on the stone, one side of the stone is the color of milk and the other is the color of honey. When the light changes direction, the color effect also shifts.
millefiori Glass ornamentation made from canes of colored glass that are layered, and sliced to form patterns, flowers or mosaic effect.
millegrain Decorating style creating a fine bead like effect around the edge of a metal collet; popular in the Edwardian and Belle
milling Process in which wood or metal is cut while it either the material or the tool is spinning. Symmetrical shapes and patterns are cut into the material.
mine cut Stones have a cushion-shaped girdle. This type of cut was popular in the late 1800's.
mineral Any naturally occurring, three dimensional, inorganic substance, with a chemical structure that can be exact, or can vary within limits. Elements that occur naturally are also listed as minerals.
mississippi river pearls Irregularly shaped pearls, usually elongated.
mixed cut A cut where the style of the facets above and below the girdle are different. A standard mixed cut is brilliant cut above and step cut below.
mizpah ring A broad gold ring engraved with the word MIZPAH, meaning
Mokume-Gane A Japanese origin technique where multiple layers of different metals are fused together, and then the resulting sheet is punched and filed to produce interesting patterns.
mosaic Art consisting of a design made of small pieces of colored stone or glass (tessarea) either attached to a base, inlaid, or inset into another material.
mother of pearl 1) The iridescent inside of a mollusk shell, which is used as an ornament. Not to be confused with pearl.
nacre The iridescent inside of a mollusk shell, which is used as an ornament. Not to be confused with pearl.
navette cut A gemstone shaped like a boat or oval with pointed ends.
necessaire Another word for etui.
necklace An article of jewelry which is worn around the neck, frequently formed from a metal chain and often attached to a locket or pendant. They can contain sometimes contain stones, particularly gems, wood, and/or shells. When worn high on the neck it is referred to as a choker.
negligee A long necklace that usually terminates in irregular length with tassels or drops
nickel silver An alloy which usually consists of a mixture of Nickel, Copper, and Zinc. Nickel silver does not contain any silver at all, and it was developed to imitate the color of Silver. Various percentages of the above metals could all be termed Nickel Silver. Also called German Silver.
noble metals Refers to gold, platinum, and silver. These are metals that are relatively impervious to chemical action. ^top
oil of vitriol Synonym of sulfuric acid
oiled A process in which a stone is soaked in some type of oil to enhance its luster and hide imperfections. This is frequently done to Emeralds because of their fractured nature.
old mine cut Refers to a brilliant cut in which the stone is cushion-shaped and has a high crown. Early cutting style used on diamonds. Typically mine cut stones lack symmetry and good proportions.
opal A semi-precious stone with a rainbow-like iridescence. Defined as three types: opalescent precious opals, yellow-red fire opals, and the common opal.
opalescent Effect seen in a few minerals, chiefly opal (hence its name) which cause it to exhibit a glimmer of different colors when rotated or seen in different angles. Opalescent describes mineral exhibiting this effect.
open-ended necklace Has no clasp and is worn by tying the ends together around the neck. Open-ended necklaces usually have ornaments, like beads or tassels, at the ends.
orient The characteristic sheen of fine natural and cultured pearls.
oxidation A discoloration that forms on the surface of many metals as the molecules bond with atmospheric oxygen. ^top
padparadschan Name given to a pinkish-orange color of sapphire.
paillons Small pieces of metallic foil which are placed underneath enamel work to provide a glow, popular with a number of Arts and Crafts movement jewelers.
palladium A white precious metal belonging to the platinum group, it weighs a little more than half as much as platinum and sells for half the price.
pampilles A cascade of pendant stones; popular in Georgian jewelry and meant to look like rain drops.
parure A suite of matching jewelry usually four or more pieces, a necklace, bracelets, earrings and belt or brooch.
passamenterie Jewelry inspired by furniture trimmings such as cording
paste A high content leaded glass which is faceted to imitate diamonds or backed with colored foils to imitate other gemstones. Also known as strass after Frederic Strass who invented this method in the 18th century.
pat Also known as paste or glass paste. See above.
patina Discoloration that forms on metals such as silver and bronze but often planned for in the artist
pav A method of setting faceted stones to produce the look of being covered completely with stones, in essence paving the surface with stones.
pavilion The bottom portion of a faceted stone from the girdle of the stone to the bottom point or culet.
pear cut Also called a drop cut, is teardrop shaped and often used for pendants, drop earrings, rings, and other pieces of jewelry.
penannular brooch A type of early Celtic jewelry that are circular brooches with a long pin often hinged to the base of the pin. They were used to fasten two pieces of cloth together before buttons were invented. The earliest-known piece is the Hunterston brooch from A.D. 700
pendaloque A type of pear shaped or tear drop gemstone faceted as a brilliant cut and suspended from a smaller stone which is usually separated by a bow or other motif.
pendant From Old French, it is a hanging object, generally attached to a necklace or an earring.
pendelique Lozenge shaped cut frequently used for flawed stones that are often used as pendants.
pewter Metal alloy that is composed mostly of tin (generally over 90 percent) combined with lead, antimony, bismuth, copper, and/or silver and where the formulation varies. When polished it has a silvery luster. It is a soft alloy that is worked by casting, hammering, or turning.
pickling Placing metal to be cleaned into a dilute solution of sulfuric acid.
pierce work Cutting holes in metal with a jeweler's saw to create intricate patterns. This is sometimes confused with filigree, which is fine wires soldered together to create intricate patterns.
pietra dura Mosaic of semi-precious stones set into a floral pattern of black marble or onyx, also known as a hardstone mosaic.
pin Term used interchangeably with brooch and is any ornament that can be pinned to a garment.
pinchbeck A gold simulant, invented circa 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck, which is comprised of a mixture of copper and zinc.
pink gold Also known as rose gold, is gold alloyed with a mix of 90% copper and 10% silver giving it a pink tint.
piqu Tortoiseshell or horn which is inlaid with mother-of-pearl, silver or gold.
planishing A hammering process done to give a smoother finish to a piece of metal.
plating See electroplating.
platinum A non-corrosive silver white metal, which is heavy and has a high tensile strength.
pleochromism The property of having more than two colors, especially when viewed from different angles. In pleochroic minerals, a single stone will show many colors.
plique Back-less enamel that is a bit like stained glass as the enamel work is translucent since the backing of the enamel is absent. Cells of enamel are surrounded by delicate wire. Plique
porous Term describing stones that have tiny holes in them. These holes allow water, oils, and other substances to penetrate the stone, frequently changing their appearance over time.
posy ring A ring engraved with a verse.
pot metal An inexpensive metal alloy, usually containing lead, sometimes used for inexpensive costume jewelry.
princess cut A relatively new diamond cut created in the 1970
princess cut A square-cut stone. This fancy cut is relatively new and is also known as a Quadrillion or Squarillion cut.
princess plus cut Also known as
promise ring A pre-engagement ring, usually with a relatively small stone.
prong set Stones held securely in a setting by tiny metal claws.
proportions The ratio of a gem's diameter to its table, and depth. Usually expressed as a percentage.
prystal Sn imitation crystal made from translucent, phenolic plastic.
Pt. Abbreviation for platinum. ^top
quadrillion cut A square-cut stone. This fancy cut is relatively new and is also known as a Princess or Squarillion cut.
