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Jewelry Design - Jewelry terms
Category: Hobbies and Crafts > Jewelry Designs
Date & country: 31/08/2013, US
Words: 113


Amethystine
The color violet to purple in gemstones.

Angle of Incidence
The angle at which a ray of light enters a stone asmeasured from normal.

Angle of Reflection
The angle at which a reflected ray of light leaves asurface as measured from normal.

Angle of Refraction
The angle at which a reflected ray of light leaves asurface as measured from normal.

Anisotropic
Term used in gemology for double refraction.

Balas Ruby
Trade name for Red Spinel.

Base
The portion of a facetted gemstone below the Girdle.Also known as the Pavilion.

Baton
The English name for the Baguette cut.

Bearing
The supporting ledge of a stone setting.

Bezel
A thin strip of metal that holds a gemstone in place.Used in place of prongs.

Birefringence
The numerical measurement of double refraction ingemstones.

Blocking
The process of placing the facets on a stone.

Body Color
The dominant hue within a gemstone.

Box Setting
A method of stone setting in which the gem is enclosedin a box and the edges of the metal are pressed down to securethe stone.

Brilliancy
The total amount of white light returned to the viewerby a gem. This includes internal and external reflections.

Bruting
A method of rough-diamond fashioning by rubbing onediamond against another.

Cabochon
A gemstone with an unfacetted domed form. The oldestform of gem cutting.

Cameo
A gem or shell material--usually with two or moredistinct colored layers. The top layer is carved in relief andthe bottom layer acts as a contrasting background.

Carat
A unit of weight measure for gems.

Chatoyancy
The appearance of well-defined bands or threads of lightacross the surface of a gemstone. This appearance is caused bythe reflection of light off small parallel mineral inclusions.May appear as a single-band chatoyancy--Cat's Eye--or a series ofbands--Tiger's Eye.

Checking
The tendency of Opals to crack when exposed to heat ordrying air. Also known as Crazing.

Chevee
A gemstone with a smooth concave depression.

Claw Setting
A stone setting of projecting metal claws which grip thestone at--and just above--the girdle.

Clean
A trade term for gemstones which are free of noticeableflaws.

Coated Stone
A gemstone covered by an artificially appliedtransparent material to enhance its color. Often used with Topaz.

Collet Set
A variation on box setting in which the sides of the boxare filed away to sallow more light to enter the gemstone.

Color Zoning
Uneven color in gemstones in irregular patches. Can beeither different colors or different tones of the same color.

Colored Stones
A gemstone other than a diamond.

Crazing
The tendency of Opals to crack when exposed to heat ordrying air. Also known as Checking.

Critical Angle
Greatest angle measured from normal at which light canbe refracted out of a stone. Small angle at which light istotally internally reflected.

Crown
The part of a facetted gemstone above the girdle.

Crown Setting
A collet setting consisting off a flared cylinder withone end of the cylinder notched to form prongs.

Crystalline
Having a regular crystal structure.

Crystallography
The science of the internal structure of crystals.

Cut
The specific from into which a stone is fashioned. Oneof the deciding factors in gemstone value.

Cuvette
A raised relief carved into a gemstone in a concavedepression.

Dentelles
An early term for glass imitation stone without foilbacking.

Dichroism
The transmission of two different colors in twodifferent optical planes as light passes through a gemstone. Maybe used as a method of distinguishing one type of gemstone fromanother.

Dichroscope
An instrument used to view the light passing through agemstone to determine the presence of dichroism.

Dispersion
The separation of light into its spectral colors as itpasses through a gemstone.

Dodecahedron
A twelve-sided geometric solid. One of the crystal formsfound in the Isometric crystal system.

Double Refraction
The separation of a beam of light into two separatebeams as it enters a gemstone. The two beams travel at differentspeeds. May be used to distinguish one gemstone material fromanother. Occurs in all crystal systems except Isometric.

Doublet
An assembled stone of two parts. Colorless cement orheat is used to join the parts together. Often used with Opals.

Dyed Stone
A gemstone to which an artificial stain is added toimprove color or to imitate a more valuable gemstone.

Face
The plane surfaces which form the sides of a crystal.

Facet
A planar surface which is polished onto a gemstone.

Fancy Cut/Fancy Shape
Any style of gemstone cutting other than the roundbrilliant or single cut.

Fancy Diamond
Any diamond with a body color strong enough to beattractive.

Fingerprint Inclusion
Liquid and/or gas or solid flaws in gemstones whichalign in the form of a human fingerprint.

Fire
The play of color on or within a gemstone as a result ofdispersion. Prominent valued feature of Opals and Fire Agates.

Flaw
Any visible imperfection within a gemstone.

Fluorescence
The emission of visible light when a gemstone is exposedto ultraviolet light. Used a method of distinguishing onegemstone from another and a natural gemstone from a syntheticgemstone.

Foil Backed
The adding of a layer of metallic foil to the back of agemstone to improve its color or brilliancy.

Fracture
A break or chip in a gemstone in any direction otherthan along a cleavage plane.

Geode
A rock which contains a cavity lined with quartz orother gemstone crystals.

Girdle
The outer edge of a gemstone.

Glyptic
The art of engraving or carving gems.

Gypsy Setting
A setting in which the crown of a gem is the onlyportion exposed and the table of the gemstone is nearly levelwith the surrounding metal. No prongs or separate bezel isevident; all means of setting the gemstone are below the metal'ssurface.

Habit
The most common form in which a mineral occurs.

Hardness
A gemstone material's ability to resist scratching.

Head
An added finding to secure a gemstone in a prong setting.

Heat-Treatment
Heating a gemstone material to improve color.

Hollowed Cab
A cabochon hollowed from the back. Technique is sued tolighten the color of the stone.

Illusion Setting
A setting in which the surrounding metal's surface iscut or shaped to appear to be part of the gemstone. Technique isoften used to enhance the perceived size of small diamonds.

Inclusion
A visible irregularity in a gemstone.

Intaglio
A design carved into the surface of a gemstone--theopposite in character of a cameo.

Intensity
The color of a gemstone from bright to dull.

Interference Colors
Colors revealed by a polarisope as polarized light passthrough a gemstone. Used to detect the presence of doublerefractivity in a gemstone.

Iridescence
Spectral colors observed inside or on a gemstone. It iscaused by light passing through layers of differing refractiveindexes. The colors seen in Opals are a result of iridescence.

Make
A trade term referring to the quality of a gemstone'scut.

Matrix
The rock in which gemstone material is found. Somematrix material may remain in a finished gemstone--the veining inturquoise is a common matrix seen in a finished gemstone.

Millegrain
A style of setting in which the stone is held in placeby a row of tiny beads along the girdle of the stone.

Mineral
Inorganic substances occurring naturally and having adefinite chemical composition and crystal structure.

Mixed Cut
A gemstone cut consisting of a brilliant-cut crown andstep-cut pavilion.

Moh
A categorization of minerals according to their hardness--resistanceto scratching. Diamond is the hardest and talc is the softest.

Mounting
The portion of a piece of jewelry which holds a gemstone.

Octahedron
An eight-sided geometric solid and one of the forms inthe Isometric Crystal System. The most common crystal in whichdiamonds occur.

Opalescence
Milky or pearly appearance. Girasol.

Opaque
The quality of not allowing the transmission of light.

Optic Character
The effect a material has on the transmission on light.

Optical Properties
The behavior of light within a material.

Paste
Glass usually containing lead oxide and cut to simulatea gemstone.

Pave'
Small stones set in the surface of metal as closetogether as possible.

Pavilion
The portion of a facetted gemstone below the girdle.

Phenomenon
An optical effect which appears in certain gemstonematerials. Often revealed by or enhanced by proper fashioning.

Phosphorescence
A continuing glow exhibited by some gemstones after thesource of illumination has been removed.

Play of Color
Prismatic flashes of color seen within a gemstone. Thecolor display in Opal.

Pleochroism
Change of colors observed in double-refractive gemstoneswhen viewed different directions. Selective absorption andvarying transmission rates of light cause the color change whenthe gemstone is viewed along different optical axes.

Prong
A narrow tab of metal folded over the girdle of agemstone to secure it in a setting.

Reconstructed Stone
A man-made gemstone produced by fusing together smallparticles of a natural stone.

Refraction
The change of velocity and resulting bending of light asit passes from one medium into another medium of differentoptical character.

Refractive Index
The ratio of speed of light in air to its speed within asubstance.

Refractometer
An instrument used to measure the degree of refractionwith a gemstone. One of the primary tests to identify gemstonematerial.

Rough
Uncut or unfashioned gemstone material.

Scarab
A gemstone cut in the form of a beetle.

Scintillation
Reflections from a polished surface as its relativeposition to either the viewer or the source of illuminationchanges.

Scrimshaw
Carved or engraved ivory or vegetable ivory. Theengraved lines and textured surfaces are often colored with inksand dyes.

Setting
A mounting or the portion of a mounting which actuallyholds the stone.

Stability
The ability of a gemstone to resist deterioration.

Star Stone
A gemstone in which the phenomenon of asterism isvisible.