Copy of `All about leather - Glossary of leatherworking`

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All about leather - Glossary of leatherworking
Category: Agriculture and Industry > Leather
Date & country: 04/10/2007, UK
Words: 28


Aniline Leather
Leather which has been dyed but has not received a pigmented coating, a bit like staining wood rather than painting it. See semi-aniline leather.

Antique effect
A finish designed to make the leather look worn. Also known as two-tone, rub-off or distressed.

Buckskin
Suede leather made from deer skin from which the grain layer has been removed. Generally tanned with fish oil or formaldehyde or both.

Buffalo
Leather made from the hides of domesticated water buffalo from the Far East, not from the American bison.

Buffing
The process of sanding leather to remove surface imperfections (see corrected grain pigmented leather) or produce suede or nubuck.

Chamois leather
Originally made from the skin of the chamois, but now made from oil tanned sheepskin, widely used for washing cars, windows etc. Notable for its ability to absorb large quantities of water.

Corrected grain pigmented leather
Leather which has been buffed or sanded to remove surface imperfections before having a surface coating applied. An artificial grain pattern is usually embossed into the surface. See also full grain pigmented leather.

Double face
Sheepskin or lambskin with the wool still attached and sueded on the flesh side.

Embossing, plating or printing
The process of heat pressing an artificial grain pattern or some other decorative pattern into leather.

Finished split
A split which has had a surface coating applied and has been embossed with an artificial grain pattern to resemble grain leather. A finished split is not as strong as grain leather.

Full grain pigmented leather
Leather whose natural grain surface has not been removed before applying a surface coating containing pigment, although an artificial grain pattern is often embossed into the surface anyway (see also corrected grain pigmented leather).

Grain leather
Leather which has its grain surface substantially intact, as opposed to suede or split. Corrected grain and nubuck count as grain leather because only part of the grain layer is removed. The grain layer extends from the grain surface to the hair roots.

Kid leather
Originally leather made from the skins of immature goats but now applied to glove and shoe leathers made from goatskins.

Mineral tanned
Leather tanned with mineral salts such as aluminium, chromium and zirconium. See also vegetable tanned.

Nappa
Soft full grain clothing leather.

Nubuck
Aniline leather finished by lightly buffing or sanding the grain surface to produce a velvety nap. Nubuck has a much finer nap than suede because the grain layer has a tight fibre structure.

Oily pull-up
See pull-up leather: A leather designed to lighten in colour when stretched, producing a worn-in effect with time.

Patent leather
Leather with one surface covered with a flexible film with a very shiny surface, produced by application of several coats of daubs, varnishes and lacquers.

Pigment
An opaque colouring which is mixed with a polymer to produce a coloured surface coating. Dyeing leather is like staining wood while applying a pigmented coating is like painting it.

Pigmented leather
Leather which has received a surface coating containing pigments. This surface coating can impart greater wear resistance, water resistance and protection from staining. See full grain pigmented and corrected grain pigmented.

Plating, printing or embossing
The process of heat pressing an artificial grain pattern or some other decorative pattern into leather.

Pull-up leather
(also known as waxy or oily pull-up) A leather designed to lighten in colour when stretched, producing a worn-in effect with time.

Semi-aniline
Aniline leather which has received a surface coating containing a small amount of pigment. The surface coating helps impart greater stain resistance.

Shaving
The removal of excess material from the non-grain side of a hide or skin to obtain an even thickness.

Split
The result of splitting leather into layers. A split has no natural grain surface and may be buffed to produce suede or have an artificial grain applied to produce a finished split.

Suede
A leather produced by buffing or sanding a split to produce a velvety finish or nap. The nap is not as fine as nubuck because the fibre structure is looser without the grain layer.

Vegetable tanned
Leather tanned with a vegetable extract. See also mineral tanned.

Waxy pull-up
See pull-up leather: A leather designed to lighten in colour when stretched, producing a worn-in effect with time.