1. 
   Waves and shallow water
   When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, u...
   Found op http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water
   
   

Tip: double click on a word to show its meaning.